Like many homebrewers, I long considered the bottling process a limiting factor in achieving the volume and variety of homebrew that I desired to stock.  In contemplating the commitment to using cornelius kegs, however, I realized that my biggest hurdle would be finding the money or space for the associated refrigeration or dispensing system.  I therefore looked at the commercially available methods of moving away from bottling without investing in refrigerators.  In this issue, I offer some thoughts on an intermediate step between the bottle and the keg.

The options I considered were the Party Pig and the mini keg.  These systems hold 2.25 gallons and 1.25 gallons, respectively.  With some shelf adjustments, each system can be shoe-horned into a normal kitchen refrigerator with room to spare for food, and each achieves the goal of reducing bottling time.  Having previously purchased commercial beers in mini kegs and discovering that these were refillable, I opted for the mini keg system.

Mini kegs, though not perfect, are not a bad way to go if you can avoid some of the minor mishaps I experienced.  To collect the equipment, you can purchase 5 liters of Warsteiner or DAB in a mini keg for as little as $12 at Costco, for example, then refill the keg with your homebrew. Otherwise, the empty kegs can be purchased for about $5 each from homebrew retailers.  Two taps are available: a pump and a CO2 system.

The CO2 system sells for around $50.  It uses small cartridges in the handle of the tap, similar to those used in a pellet gun or emergency flotation device, but certified food grade. Both of the homebrew equipment retailers in Tidewater sell the expendable cartridges for less than a dollar and a half each.  Of the two, however, The Brewmeister's prices are better, and owner Kim Harwig is extremely helpful in the area of product support.  With a little practice on the pressure regulator, one cartridge will dispense almost two mini kegs.  The regulator valve can be closed so that cartridge pressure is retained even with the tap removed from the mini keg.

The pump system sold for around $19 back in 1995 when I was comparing prices.  While it has the advantage of not requiring the additional cost of CO2 cartridges, it obviously introduces oxygen into your beer and accelerates spoilage.

Various methods of carbonation are possible with mini kegs.  They can be cask-conditioned with priming sugar at a rate of half that used for a 5-gallon batch.  Listermann Manufacturing markets "Phils Relieph Bung" to prevent over-carbonation and mini keg failure.  I haven't used one yet, but I have lost a mini keg due to over-priming and deformation of the keg.  Amazingly enough, however, the bulging keg did not leak.  They can be force-carbonated using the cartridges, but it takes almost an entire cartridge to carbonate, leaving little CO2 left for dispensing.  This significantly adds to the cost of a 5-gallon batch of beer.

Another interesting method of carbonation was suggested to me by Kim Harwig, but it requires the use of a conventional CO2 bottle and regulator, and a special device to connect the regulator to the tap.  The connecting device is marketed as The Carbonator, by Liquid Bread, Inc. of Apopka, Florida.  The device is intended for carbonating beverages in 2-liter plastic soda bottles, and consists of a cap with an integral poppet valve.  It connects to the standard ball-lock fittings on cornelius kegs, and sells for under $15.  The mini keg CO2 tap cartridge housing uses the same threads as the soda bottle allowing the connection of the CO2 bottle to the mini keg.

One note of caution should be observed when force carbonating a mini keg using the method described above.  Pressure should be kept as low as possible, preferably under 20 psi.  Also, set the entire mini keg in a pot or bucket while carbonating.  I left my setup in my refrigerator at about 23 psi overnight, and awoke to find most of the beer in the bottom of the refrigerator or on the garage floor.  This failure did not include deformation of the keg, however.  The beer was forced out through the seam between the base and side walls.  With pressure relieved, the failed keg was actually watertight.

Some attention to the maintenance of the CO2 tap will prevent much frustration and lost beer.  First, inspect and lube with petroleum jelly the O-ring at the top of the dip tube and the one at the threaded end of the dispensing tube.  Wash and sanitize the dip tube, inspect for cracks at the threads, then hand-tighten, but do not over tighten the dip tube in the tap.  Wipe a thin coating of petroleum jelly on the outside of the dip tube.  The dip tube fits so tightly in the bung that virtually all of the lubricant stays outside the keg, but this will drastically reduce the force required to drive the tap into the bung.  This in turn will prevent cracking the dip tube at the threads, or driving the entire bung into the keg (both of which I have already done).  I also strongly recommend keeping a spare dip tube on hand.  Finally, I added an O-ring at the orifice where the mouth of the cartridge meets the tap housing.  An O-ring there was not included by the manufacturer, but after several system failures I wanted reassurance.

With the bugs worked out, this system is an effective alternative to bottling.  While it is no replacement for cornelius kegs, it marks a step in the right direction.  After you've moved on to cornelius kegs, mini kegs can still come in handy.  You can dispense bright beer from the corny keg into the mini and transport it to parties and club meetings. That way, friends can sample your wares, but your entire 5-gallon keg isn't drained.  And it's a heck of a lot lighter.  So, before you assemble your dream dispensing system, it may be worth your while to investigate some of the intermediate options available to help you break the bottle habit.
 

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